Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Fabric balance sheet 4/2014

This month I bought a lot of fabric. While still on a shopping hiatus. Let's just say, my balance doesn't look good:

Incoming:
  • 4m black thin cotton
  • 2m black georgette
  • 2m white cotton
  • 2m white georgette
  • 1m psychodelic jersey
  • 2m navy and white striped cotton satin
  • 5m flower cotton satin (2m +3m in different colourways)
  • 3m green taffeta
  • 3m thin wool suiting fabric
  • 5m black organdy
  • 3m black and silver brocade
total damage: 32 m fabric

Outgoing (only counting finished projects):
  • 1m psychodelic jersey for 2 tops
  • 4m black thin cotton for chemise and underpants
  • 3m grey cotton for the underskirt
  • 3m of various fabrics for Easter present baskets I forgot to take pictures of
  • 1m black and red taffeta for a table runner for my mum
  • 2,5m of various fabrics for the finally finished fall tornure waistcoat
to the rescue: 14,5 m fabric

initial stash: 95,25m + 32m - 14.5 m = 112,75m (+17,5m) fabric in my stash this month

Oh no! As I said, not a good month for my stash reduction project... Let's hope May is better for my fabric balance as there are several larger projects for WGT on my to do list :)

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Psychodelic shirt 2

To really use up all of this fabric at once, I had to piece it a bit. I used all of the remnants, the only leftovers were something around 10cm²... As I knew the amount if fabric was limited, I decided to go without sleeves. I had New Look pattern 6569 in my stash, so I used this. Instead of using elastic bias tape, I made fake bias tape from the actual fabric:

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Again, the seams are made with two different threads. You did not really think I would re thread more than necessary, right?!

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I really like how the piecing is nearly hidden in the wild print (it is right on the belly in the fron part of the shirt ;) ). I'm not so sure about the ruching in front - it does make me ample bosoms really pop. Well, I think the pattern is distracting enough!

Monday, April 28, 2014

Psychodelic shirt 1

You may remember the rather colourful and slightly psychodelic jersey I bought in Münster recently? I already turned it into two shirts. It was nice enough to test two patterns and might even be worn if I'm particularly brave. Well, at least I hope so!

The first shirt was made with New Look pattern 6813. I used view C before unsuccessfully with a large gaping neckline and a not very flattering pattern of the fabric. Well, sometimes thing just don't turn out as envisioned! This time I made view A and it looks and fits great.

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Since I was short on fabric andnot sure how the bright colours look against my skin, I decided for the safe route and used black jeres from my stash for the neckline. One nice detail (that probably no one will ever notice which is why I show it here on this blog) is the twin seams I made with two different matching threads:

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The funny thing is that my boyfriend did not show the slightest objection to them. Usually he has good style, so maybe the shirt is cool. Or not, I'm not sure...

Friday, April 25, 2014

Week in Review 17/2014

What did I see?
I am so annoyed (and sad) by the horrible cliffhanger in the last episode of season 3 of Downton Abbey. And now I have to wait for season 4 to appear! Grrrr!

After last weeks fantastic drawings, this week I fell in love with the surealistic photos by Leonid Tishkov. He travels the world and takes his moon with him. His moon? Yes, a glowing model! I am so glad to see such an inspirational project...


What did I listen to?
Herman's Hermits - No milk today

What did I ask myself?
Is this a final turn?

What did I read?
I'm currently reading yet another Sebastian Fitzek book - Augensammler (eye's collector). It was lend to me by a friend who has all of the books collected. I'm torn wether I like the books or not. They have a certain style which makes them predictable, but the basic stuff about each psychopathic killer is different.

What did I work on?
Historical underwear and some shirts. Back on the sewing train!

I was happy about...
My boyfriend. So love, much wow!

I was annoyed about...
Myself. Somehow I'm still not the best me I can be...

I bought...
A book and a gift for my aunt.

Thursday, April 24, 2014

Who made your clothes?

After the light reading about historical undergarments, let us talk about something serious for today! One year ago, the Rana-Plaza building broke down and buried hundreds of women working for the textile industry. Many corporations still deny to produce clothes there and refrain from paying compensation money to the survivors and the families of the dead.

Since the time passed, the topic has vanished from the news. And I find that very unfair! I know how much work goes into every sewn garment and I'm not particularly happy about the conditions those poor people in India, Korea and China work in just to present us Europeans and Northern Americans with two new collections per season. Do we really need all of that? Would it kill us to pay 20 cent more per shirt if those went directly towards the seamstresses and helped them being paid more fair? Do we really need the 30th black t-shirt?

To raise awareness for the cause, bloggers/twitterers/people all over the world wear their clothes inside out and I participate:

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I wear a fairtrade shirt I bought at armed angels (which was by the way a coincedence, I read about this today in the morning already fully dressed) and Primark jeans. I know that they are made under the worst conditions, but on the other hand they fit me well and other brands use the same seamstresses but charge more. No excuse, I know, but I will replace them once they are past their prime with something that pays the seamstresses fair... :)

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Historical underwear - shirt chemise

Another foundation garments is the chemise, a loose shirt dress which is worn under the corset. Again, this is not strictly neede for WGT, but I have read so many blogs focused on historical  sewing and they all mention that you can never achieve the correct silhouette without the correct underwear. So I was curious to try it!

Again, I used plain thin black cotton and a pattern from Marquise. I omitted the sleeves because I will potentially wear it under Tailles without sleeves as well. It was rather easy to put together, and looks pretty sweet if I might say so!

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It is fun to wear, but I kind of wonder how the women faired in summer with all those layers!

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Historical underwear - The unmentionables ;)

Over Easter (with some days off and not being religious at all) I sewed some foundation clothes. I know they are not exactly necessary for WGT and should spend my time sewing for the big events, but I currently have some troubles with my sewing mojo and have to grab every straw I find! I used an original historical pattern published by the marvelous Marquise:

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The fabric - a plain black, thin cotton- was bought last weekend in Münster and is almost gone already! The lace is also from the most recent order from Stoklaza and still feels a bit stiff. I worry a bit because I could not wash it before usage, but since it is ruffled, I guess it will stretch a bit if needed.

What you cannot see here is that they are made in the original fashion which leaves the crotch open. This was done to allow for easier toilet access and I'd like to try that out. I'll make the same pattern again with a closed crotch and compare them for usability, if you'd like... ;)

Friday, April 18, 2014

Week in Review 16/2014

What did I see?
I'm currently in the third season of "Downton Abbey"and I'm hooked! I really love the characters and their development, the beautiful fashion and the twists and turns of the Lords and Ladies of Grantham.


I also did see some amazing drawings of Svetoslav Pretov. He really is creative and yet haunting!





What did I listen to?
Metallica - One Because my boyfriend and I watched the Metallica movie which was good in ways - the music! James Hetfield!- and bad in others - what about this strange side story with the hangman?!

What did I ask myself?
Where is my sewing mojo? It is hiding somewhere?

What did I read?
I'm currently reading yet another Sebastian Fitzek book - Augensammler (eye's collector). It was lend to me by a friend who has all of the books collected. I'm torn wether I like the books or not. They have a certain style which makes them predictable, but the basic stuff about each psychopathic killer is different.

What did I work on?
I did some seams on a new skirt, but not much again. This weekend will change that!

I was happy about...
Fabric and notions - I never knew I missed shopping so much!

I was annoyed about...
How can such a boring and capitalistic thing like shopping make me so happy?!

I bought...
Nothing!

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Even more haul...

Besides the fabrics I bought in Münster, I also ordered some more notions from Stoklasa (which I can highly recommend by the way). Maybe some more than just some, but Stoklasa usually sells larger amounts and they are plenty cheap...

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The fringe and the braid are mainly for my boyfriend's next uniform but since they only sold it by 25m, I will probably use it on something for me as well... The upper lace will end up on my outfit for the Victorian picknick, the lower one is for historic underwear.

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I bought the upper edging I bought for another dress but I was a little disappointed by the plastic rectangles. The seemed more like stones or big pearls on the store pictures. But I will cut the away and replace them by something prettier! ^^ I also bought velvet ribbon, bias tape, buttons to cover with fabric and crystal buttons.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Shopping haul - Fabric and notions

The last week I went all out shopping-wise. I ordered notions and went fabric shopping with my friends in the Stoffecke in Münster. I know that this month still falls under the no shopping rules, but I'm allowed to buy stuff for WGT and most of the fabric is intented for this. Some of it (the ones with the flowers) are for my boyfriends mother who wants me to copy a comfy summer dress she owns. I was not sure which colour she would prefer, so I got both and will use the one she likes less for a dress for a wedding I have to attend in June. There are two more fabrics which I bought with no actual clothes in mind. I do not regret to buy them although I am not exactly allowed to buy them... But I still wanted to confess this here!

The fabrics in the first picture are all for WGT. I'd like to do another regency dress (and matching chemise) in white and the other two fabrics are for the pestilence outfit I have planned.

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These are the fabrics for my boyfriend's mother and the two I just liked. 1 meter of psychedelic jersey and 1.5 meters of navy and white striped cotton sateen:

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The last things I bought were new sergers cones (where else can you find Gütermann cones for 2 Euros?), a little bit of fake fur which is so incredibly soft I could not leave it behind and 20 buttons for a blouse:

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The fabrics are currently being washed and dried but they will soon return to this blog!

Friday, April 11, 2014

Week in Review 15/2014


What did I see?
Of course I watched "Downton Abbey" to pass back the DVDs as soon as possible. Otherwise I did not watch anything specific this week...
But on Gothic Charm School's tumblr I saw something intriguing: A fully black garden installation made by Lauren Fensterstock! Since I like the spooky aesthetics, I always felt drawn to dark gardens, but I was never aware how much more attention that brings to the textures and forms when everything is reduced to one colour!



What did I listen to?
ASP "Schwarzes Blut"

What did I ask myself?
Where is my usual "looking forward to WGT"? Do I grow tired of this festival?

What did I read?
This week I read through Veronica Roth's second ("Insurgent") and third ("Allegiant") books of the "Divergent series". By the haste I read them you could guess how much I loved it! Both books are much better than the first novel, they have unexpected twists (especially the last book) and overall left me disturbed and full of thoughts. Could this dystopia really happen? How would I react to it? Go, read it already!

What did I work on?
Not much. Some repairs and I finished the jacket. But I will cut out something today!

I was happy about...
Meeting Mandibel and Neisella again after quite some time. How sexy my boyfriend looks in a shirt. How much new stuff I currently learn. Doing more sports.

I was annoyed about...
Now I only *ahem* need to get back on track with my reading at work. And increase my life motivation some more...

I bought...
Some toys and food for the gerbils. And fabric (for WGT which is allowed) and some notions and flowers (also for WGT)

Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Fall tornure - Waistcoat

On my quest to finally finish what I started, I also re-discovered the jacket I had not finished for the fall tornure. What, you do not remember the awesome outfit I made last year in September?! *cough* There was supposed to be a jacket with it, which is now (almost?) finished...


What stopped my from finishing it, you ask? Well, the closure. I originally sewed in hooks and eyes (by hand! Just this should make you imagine how long it took) only to discover on first wear that this closure is gaping a lot and therefore ruins the fake "vest and jacket" look. Bummer.

So I ripped the hooks and eyes out (by hand! Again!) and looked for a zipper. I'm ready to scr*w historical correctness -or at least the look, because technically neither fabric nor pattern are historic- to just finish this thing of. I was actually planning to add some lace to hide the zipper, but that would involve hand sewing again...

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What do you think? The zipper is not really that eye-sore, right?

Monday, April 7, 2014

Make do and mend

This weekend I finished some stuff I had in my to do stash for some time. I sewed on a button. I inserted the magnetic closures (made from real magnets sewn into fabric bags because they were cheaper) into my Russian cape:

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And I mended my leggings which I ripped when I got a bit over-excited for seeing the wonderful Mandibel again after months:

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Not so exciting, but I'm kind of happy that I got some things from my "D*mn, you really need to finish this stuff" list!

Friday, April 4, 2014

Week in Review 14/2014

What did I see?
Since I bought the complete series "Dark Angel", I came around to watching exactly 1 episode. But I'm still happy I got it and do not regret buying it, because I'll come around to it eventually! This weekend will be spend with "Downton Abbey" as my colleague borrowed me her DVD boxes.
I also stumbled upon the art of Katerina Plotnikova who seems to be all over the Internet this week. I really love her modern fairytale pictures with real animals (although I kind of wonder if the animals were sedated or how they were tamed enough for some of the pictures):


What did I listen to?
Mr. Probz "Waves"

What did I ask myself?
How comes I still love him so much?


What did I read?
I'm now in the last book of the Nesthäkchen series by Else Ury. I think this was never translated into English since the story is pretty old (it starts in the 1910s). It is about Annemarie Braun, doctor's daughter and a real tomboy, who finds her path in life and how she and her family (in the later books, also children and grandchildren) live their life in German capital Berlin. Since the books are written during politically interesting times, there are many ideologies in the books I do not support (although only in the first world war, the second was not existent when the books were written!). But it gives a good grasp of the opinions and ideas that were around at that time. Therefor I would recommend it for the (German) interested and critical readers!

What did I work on?
I sewed some magnet casings. A lot of overtime at work didn't allow for much sewing...

I was happy about...
Making a little progress and finding a good sale for work articles. And going to a party tonight!

I was annoyed about...
Low motivation. It is coming back, but slowly. Too slow for my impatient self! ^^

I bought...
Boots, a shower curtain and 2 books. Might have to cut back on book buying as well... *blush*

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

WGT 2014 - Net shirt

As one of the tops for WGT 2014 I wanted to use a net fabric with holes in it. I bought it some years ago and was always waiting for inspiration to strike, so this year it finally blossomed from fabric to garment! I did my usual "Lay a fitting shirt on it and cut around" professional pattern making, so I actually don't have much to say about this shirt. Besides the fabric was a b*tch to sew...

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